الفهرس 
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Abstract
Une of the more important phases of the study of the effects of waves on the shore is the modification of the wave trains as they approach the shore through shallow water. This thesis is on a theoretical investigation of the transformation including energy loss) of waves in shallow water by bottom friction, percolation, and pure shoaling.
Using the dissipation functions introduced by PUTNAt-1 and JOHNSON, (1949) and PU IMAN (1949), derived from the theory of progressive oscillatory waves of small amplitude, a general solution of the steady state energy equation is obtained. This solution avoids the tedious process of successive approximations but does involve numerical integration for complex situations of bottom topography.
A field investigation on this subject has been studied by Bretshneider and Reid (1954) who developed formulas and graphs for the computation of wave height changes due to the above main factors.
In their study they considered the cases of constant slope and of constant depth. In suchcases an exact solution of the differential eyuation governing the wave height transformation was considered beach profiles of more complex configurations. In the latter case, wave height was calculated using numerical tech¬niques based on the approximation of the curved profiles by a series of straight line segments. This thesis represents largely an extension of the work of Bretshneider and Reid (1954).
In chapter 1 we present a brief introduction to surface waves together with the basic defin1¬tions and mathematical formulation of the baS1C equations for wave motion.
In chapter 2 we derive the basic formulae for the rate of energy d1ssipation for waves ot small steepness by bottom friction and by percolation 1n a permeable bed.
In chapter 3 we derive the basic formulae for wave height reduction factors during shoaling for the case of bottom of constant slope.
In chapter 4 we derive the new basic formulae for wave height reduction factors during shoaling for the case of curved bed ”parabolic profiles”.
Finally, the resulting expressions are nUl11lcrically solved anJ a set of yraphs are oL)tdlncll