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Abstract The subject of surface gravity waves has great variety whether regarded from the point of view of the types of physical problems which occur, or from the point of view of the mathematical ideas and methods needed to attack them. The physical problems range from discussion of Wave motion over sloping beaches to flood waves in rivers, the motion of ships in a sea-way, free oscillation of enclosed bodies of water such as lakes and harbors’ and the propagation of frontal discontinuities in the atmosphere. |